Step 1 - Saaj- Washing of cloths
Step 2 - Kasanu- Treating of Cloths
Step 3 Khariyanu Stage Known as Rekh- Block printing of Outline
In this stage the cloth is dyed in a cold solution of myrobalan (powdered nut of the harde tree).Myrobalan turns the cloth a yellow color and works as a mordant, helping to fix the dyes. The cloth is then calendared, after which it is laid flat to dry in the hot sun.
Step 4 - Black Block Printing
In this stage black design is printed. Black dye is made up of rusted iron, ground powder of chickpea, and jaggery (raw cane sugar), which is placed in a pot and kept for 7-8 days as per season then extracted into water. This iron water is then mixed with powder of tamarind seed to make a paste.Boiled for one hour.The paste is printed on to the cloth.
Step 5 Gach- Resist block print design from dying colors
This block print is to protect all the areas in which one does not want dyed. The gach print paste consists of alum, mud (red clay), and millet flour. It is the sprinkled with sawdust to keep the mud from cracking.
After gach printing, the cloth is left to dry naturally for several days. The paste used for gach printing is made from local clay which is filtered through muslin, millet flour and alum.
Step 6 Dyeing in indigo
The cloth is dyed in indigo (bodaw). In order to establish an indigo vat, natural indigo.
Step 7 Vichharnu- washing of cloth
Cloth is washed in running water and laid flat to dry in the sun.
Step 8 Rang-Revealing of Cloth
The cloth is boiled in a solution of tamarix (from the dhawri tree) + madder root powder, if you want an orange-red color, or alizarin (synthetic madder) for a red color,rubab, if you want a brown color, for green color pomegranate skins are boiled and liquid is sprayed on to the cloth. The cloth is then washed in water and hung in the sun to dry. At this stage the red and black areas of the design develop and the resist areas are revealed as white.
Step 9 Dry in Sun
Cloth will be dried in sun. Various colors of dye can be use .
Step 10 Final Product
Kutch is the homeland of Variety of hand printed textiles. Important among them are Ajrakh prints & Batik prints
(1) AJRAKH PRINTS :- Ajrakh printing is one of the popular traditional crafts of kutch. The word “AJRAKH” means “keep it today” and probably served as means of publicity. It also means beautifying and in Arabia, Ajrakh denotes the blue color which is an essential of the craft. The Khatri community has been engaged in this craft for many centuries and the techniques are handed down from father to son.
(2) BATIK PRINTS : Batik is one of the most attractive and important crafts of Kutch. In this printing paraffinwax is used as the resist material. In the 18th and 19th century, the East India Company used to export Batik. Nowadays craft depends more on local demand than on the export market.
(3) PRINTING WITH VEGETABLE DYES : Printing with dyes of vegetable Origin is a traditional art of the district. Introduction of synthetic dyes have almost entirely replaced the indigenous dyes. However a handful of craftsman still follow the laborious process of preparation of natural mellow dyes and print colors such as indigo (Indigofera Tinctoria) katho (Acaciacarecha), lakhs (Red wood Adenanthera pavonia), haldar (Curelums Louga), harda (Terminalis nebula), majitha (Rubia cordifolia) padays (Turmirics Indian) and which used a kaiya type of clya. Lac (a type of resin) is used in the preparation of colors for printing and dying.